RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
The Russian River was named for the Russian fur trappers who established a trading colony there in the early 19th century. Soon French and Italian immigrants came and brought their own centuries-old traditions of winemaking to the area. Wine has been made in Sonoma County for over 130 years. Even during the Prohibition years (1920-33) many wineries continued to make wine for medicinal and sacramental purposes.
The Russian River itself meanders among three American Viticultural Areas that combined represent a pastiche of microclimates and soils. Russian River Valley’s is known for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The Russian River Valley Grape to Glass annual event takes place every August and gives wine lovers a one of a kind vineyard and winery experience, and gourmet wine country dining. The day kicks off with a tasting reception showcasing more than 50 wineries and growers. Meet, greet, and taste opportunity with winemakers, grape growers, restaurateurs, hoteliers and neighbors. As you eat and drink the day away, stroll through the beautiful property of Richard's Grove & Saralee's Vineyard, peruse art by local artists, feast on an elegant BBQ, bid in a silent auction, and enjoy local entertainment.
A day of wine tasting along the Russian River Valley Wine Road is one of the best outings you can have. A great thing about this area is that it’s where modern, state-of-the-art wineries such as Kendall-Jackson, and J Vineyards & Winery co-exist with small, artisanal producers such as Acorn Winery, and Harvest Moon Winery for whom making wine is a way of life, completely intertwined with home and family. From grand scale and opulent to boutique and intimate, the size and shapes of these vineyards and wineries may be in opposition, but the fruit of their vines are harmoniously delicate and delicious.
Make a reservation and visit Acorn Winery where owners and winemakers Betsy and Bill Nachbaur will give you a personal tour of their vineyard, tell you all you need to know about the winemaking process, and walk you through a tasting of their wines, which remains small, at about 3,000 cases a year. There is no fee for Ticket to the Wine Road visitors. I was particularly fond of their 2012 Rosato.
Likewise, Harvest Moon Winery, a family business who has grown quality grapes in the Russian River Valley since 1976 and is now overseen by Randy Pitts, is a small production turning out exceptional varietals, including Zinfandel and small amounts of handcrafted Russian River Valley Gewürztaminer, Pinot Noir, and Dry Creek Sauvignon.
On the other end of the wine spectrum are the big producers of the region. Consider these must visits, even if you’re partial to the smaller producers, there’s just so much to see and taste that you’d be doing yourself a disservice by skipping them.
I always say start with the bubbly and the likes of Iron Horse Vineyards, and J Vineyards & Winery do it best. And right next door to J is Rodney Strong Vineyards so you might as well make an afternoon out of it. At J, the property is impressive and there are multiple tastings to choose from, but if you’re really feeling like you’re on vacation, go big and hit the J. Bubble Room, a full-service tasting salon where you can enjoy an exclusive three-course meal, including rare library and small-production wines, served with delicious, organic and locally sourced fare. We actually did the bubbly tasting without the food. I was a big fan of the J. Brut Rosé, and of course the J. Cuvée.
Not to be outdone, you’ll really want to make a day out of it at the Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens. In business since 1974, Kendall-Jackson Winery produces an array of super-premium wines whose quality, taste and integrity embody the very spirit of its founder's mission. In Jess Jackson's own words, "We grow grapes on our own 15,000 acres of California coastal vineyards. We take the no-compromise, high road approach to quality required to grow our world-class grapes and produce acclaimed award-winning wines."
Perhaps the highlight of my wine vacation was the decadent, over-the-top and sensational food pairing Kendall-Jackson offers. With an in-house kitchen led by executive chef Justin Wangler serving restaurant quality cuisine, calling this a “pairing” doesn’t do justice to the experience. You can choose from the Wine and Local Artisan Cheese Pairing; Wine & Food Pairing; and the Wine & Dessert Pairing. We went for broke and did all three—way too decadent and extravagant but I don’t regret it! But if you’re on a budget and can only do one, go for the Food Pairing. But considering the lovely setting, take your time, spend the better part of the afternoon indulging and eating and drinking your way to Nirvana.
The Wine and Local Artisan Cheese Pairing consisted of the 2012 Kendall-Jackson AVANT Chardonnay with Humboldt Fog, Cypress Grove Creamery; 2011 Grand Reserve Chardonnay with Boho Bel, Bohemian Creamery; 2011 Vintner’s Reserve Riesling with Carmody, Bellwether Farms; 2007 Grand Reserve Syrah with Estero Gold, Valley Ford Cheese Company; 2006 Highland Estates Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon with Two Rock Valley, DeBernardi Dairy; 2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay with Point Reyes Bay Blue, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company; and Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Verjus Jello.
You would think that was enough and that naptime was next but you would be so wrong. Bring on the Wine & Food Pairing!
We started with the 2010 Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc with Cornmeal Crusted Estate Heirloom Fried Tomato with Créme Fraiche and Trout Caviar. I think you see where this is going?
Next was 2011 Vintner’s Reserve Riesling with a Dry Creek Peach Bruschetta, Délice de la Vallée, Kendall-Jackson Estate Honey & Basil; followed by 2011 Grand Reserve Pinot Noir with Charred Eggplant Arancini with Carmody Cheese and Heirloom Tomato Sauce.
Two of my favorites were the 2007 Highland Estates Alisos Hills Syrah with Sweet Tee Brined Niman Ranch Pork Belly Slider with Syrah BBQ Sauce; and 2006 Highland Estates Napa Mountain Merlot with Korean BBQ Beef Lettuce Wrap.
The food pairing also includes its own dessert (two of ‘em), which really pushed the over indulgence button…2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay with Chardonnay Financier, Strawberry Rhubarb Sauce, Candied Hazelnuts, Lemon Verbena Meringue; and 2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay with Mama Frischkorn’s Caramel Corn. It doesn’t get any better, or so I thought, but then it was time for the Wine & Dessert Pairing.
The sweet festival started with 2011 Vintner’s Reserve Riesling with Coconut Macaroon; followed by 2011 Vintner’s Reserve Muscat Canelli with Mexican Wedding Cookie; 2009 Late Harvest Riesling with Passion Fruit French Macaron; 2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay with Almond Frangipane with Lemon Fennel Mousse; and last but not least, Grand Reserve Port with Valrhona Dark Chocolate.
Sure, opting for all three pairings was daring, foolhardy, gluttonous…not to mention fully satisfying. And yes, with nearly 20 tastes of wines (that’s about a bottle’s worth) all I can say is God bless designated drivers. I would do it all over again if possible. I’ll do it again next time I visit.
SONOMA WINE COUNTRY TRAVEL CONTINUED CLICK HERE
