BOW & TRUSS
NOHO FAVE REVAMPS

When I first discovered North Hollywood’s Bow & Truss, I have to admit I was surprised and impressed that such refined eats could be found in NoHo (sorry, don’t mean to hate on 818).

I’ve made it no secret that I love hanging out at Bow & Truss, either on the relaxing outdoor deck (weather permitting) or inside in the cool, industrial interior. So when I had the opportunity to taste the revamped menu, I was gung-ho. I have to say I was disappointed that my favorite confit chicken tacos are no longer on the menu (say it ain’t so!) but there are still plenty of delicious choices to choose from.

A definite must to start is the fabulous Fig Bread, served with St. Agur butter and fig balsamic. This badass bread is reason enough to visit. Likewise, the street tacos are good go-to dishes, even if they lost the fab confit tacos. The Pollo Chipotle Tacos (café mole, smashed avocado, queso cotija, and lime) and the Puerco Picante Taco (habanero braised pork cheek, cilantro, Thai chili crema, and white onion) are definite crowd-pleasers.

While the paellas are always solid and among the most popular dishes, we didn’t try any this time around, instead we opted for the salmon, which was prepared with faro, sundried tomato confit, crisp mushroom, and aji. This is a great light and healthy option. And on the other end of the dining spectrum is the hearty Grilled Hanger Steak, served with sweet corn puree, crisp onion, pickled scallion, and St. Agur demi glace.

Unfortunately I wasn’t a big fan of the cocktails. I felt they used to be better before, and during this most recent visit, they were victim of poor balance, especially the classic cocktails like Old Fashioned and The Manhattan. The Signal Fire, made with infused jalapeño gin, peach/cilantro syrup, lime and orange zest salt rim, and the Burnt Pepino, mixed with spicy and jalapeños, cucumber, vodka, fresh lemon juice and agave nectar and good options but I think you’re better off with beers or wine.

I love the vibe and Bow & Truss, it’s chill yet energetic and a little different than anything else in the area.

Bow & Truss is located at 11122 Magnolia Blvd in North Hollywood. Call 818-985-8787.

Story by Jose Martinez